On the Texas Barbecue Trail

">afirebox, wood burns down to coals, then it's
Among polite society, a few subjects are invariablytransferred to the main section ofthe pit beneath the
touchy, threatening to flare into heated debate.meat to impart a delicate smoky taste subtler than
Politics. Religion.ordinarysmoking. Don't miss Cooper's Old Time Pit
And don't forget to add one more topic to that list ifBarbecue. From its hugerectangular pits located by
you're in Texas: barbecue.the front door to the dining room lined with loavesof
Whether you spell it barbecue, barbeque, bar-b-que,white bread and jars of jalapeño peppers, this
or just bbq, one thing'sfor sure: barbecue is moreis the real deal.
than just a meal, it's a mantra.Taylor: Taylor calls itself "The Barbecue Capital of the
At last count, Texas boasted over 1,300 barbecueWorld," home of twolegendary barbecue joints
joints, ranging from side-of-the-road greasehousesseparated only by a parking lot and small road attheir
with slamming screen doors to sit-downlocations on Second Street. Louis Mueller's is housed
restaurantswith beautiful vistas, air conditioning andin one of the mostauthentic barbecue joints in Texas,
even (gasp) wine lists. The businessof barbecue ringswith an old-fashioned screen door, smoke-covered
up over a half-billion dollars annually, a cobwebwalls, and giant fans that provide the only cool
ofcommerce that connects an otherwise diverse,breeze on a hotsummer day. Next door, Rudy
sprawling state with a commonmission: Go forth andMikeska's serves its equally fine offerings in amore
seek out good barbecue.citified atmosphere. During his lifetime, Rudy Mikeska
Although you can find good barbecue throughout thewas the dean of
South, the Texas varietyis different from that inTexas pitmasters. If there was a political function to
other barbecue capitals. Texas barbecue meansbe held, Rudy Mikeska andhis barbecue specialties
beefbrisket, basted meats, and tomato-based sauce,were there.
or sometimes no sauce at all.Elgin: In Texas, the town of Elgin is synonymous with
The selection varies from pit to pit but in mostsausage. The smallcommunity, located about 25 miles
tradition reigns.east of Austin, produces the sausage soldby many
In each region, divided by hundreds of miles, the localbarbecue joints through the state. The best known
barbecue is influencedby other culinary cultures, fromof Elgin's smokin'stops is the Southside Market,
Southern to Tex-Mex to Southwest. Cabritoprobably one of the most recognized names in
orbarbecued goat is often served in the westernTexas barbecue lore. In business since 1882, the
portion of the state while pork orlamb is a moremarket is known for its Elginhot sausage, sometimes
common offering in East Texas. Cooking styles varyknown as Elgin Hot Guts.
as well. Outon the West Texas plains, barbecue isLockhart: Twenty-three miles south of Austin lies
usually cooked over a slow fire ofmesquite woodanother "Barbecue Capital of
while in Southern and Central Texas pecan and oakTexas," Lockhart. The test of a real Texan is to
are morecommon. Farther east, barbecue pits areknow the correct pronunciationof the town's Kreuz
stoked with hickory. Throughout thestate, meals areMarket. No, don't say "Cruise." It's "Krites," rhyming
served with sides of cole slaw, pinto beans, andwith
spongy whitebread, often on plates of butcher paper."lights." Also in town, don't miss Smitty's, housed in
Dessert, if found at all, is usually ascoop of bananathe building where theoriginal Kreuz Market was
pudding with a dose of vanilla wafers.located, and Black's BBQ, which claims to be
Unlike Kansas City and Memphis, Texas has no clearlytheoldest barbecue house in Texas continuously
defined capital of 'que.owned by the same family. Since
But Texas does have what's sometimes nicknamed1932 the Black family has been firing up these brick
the "barbecue belt," asmoky swath that runs throughpits every day for lunchand dinner.
the central part of the state and includes:Luling: Located east of Austin, Luling is the land of oil
Llano: On the westernmost edge of the barbecuewells. No longer aboomtown, today the barbecue
belt lies the community ofrestaurants are the ones producing black gold.
Llano. What makes Llano unique among the centralThe best known spot in town is the City Market, a
Texas barbecue towns is itscooking style. Most pitno-frills smoky meat market,with plenty of local
masters in this town rely on indirect barbecuing. Inatmosphere.