| "> | | | | afirebox, wood burns down to coals, then it's |
| Among polite society, a few subjects are invariably | | | | transferred to the main section ofthe pit beneath the |
| touchy, threatening to flare into heated debate. | | | | meat to impart a delicate smoky taste subtler than |
| Politics. Religion. | | | | ordinarysmoking. Don't miss Cooper's Old Time Pit |
| And don't forget to add one more topic to that list if | | | | Barbecue. From its hugerectangular pits located by |
| you're in Texas: barbecue. | | | | the front door to the dining room lined with loavesof |
| Whether you spell it barbecue, barbeque, bar-b-que, | | | | white bread and jars of jalapeño peppers, this |
| or just bbq, one thing'sfor sure: barbecue is more | | | | is the real deal. |
| than just a meal, it's a mantra. | | | | Taylor: Taylor calls itself "The Barbecue Capital of the |
| At last count, Texas boasted over 1,300 barbecue | | | | World," home of twolegendary barbecue joints |
| joints, ranging from side-of-the-road greasehouses | | | | separated only by a parking lot and small road attheir |
| with slamming screen doors to sit-down | | | | locations on Second Street. Louis Mueller's is housed |
| restaurantswith beautiful vistas, air conditioning and | | | | in one of the mostauthentic barbecue joints in Texas, |
| even (gasp) wine lists. The businessof barbecue rings | | | | with an old-fashioned screen door, smoke-covered |
| up over a half-billion dollars annually, a cobweb | | | | walls, and giant fans that provide the only cool |
| ofcommerce that connects an otherwise diverse, | | | | breeze on a hotsummer day. Next door, Rudy |
| sprawling state with a commonmission: Go forth and | | | | Mikeska's serves its equally fine offerings in amore |
| seek out good barbecue. | | | | citified atmosphere. During his lifetime, Rudy Mikeska |
| Although you can find good barbecue throughout the | | | | was the dean of |
| South, the Texas varietyis different from that in | | | | Texas pitmasters. If there was a political function to |
| other barbecue capitals. Texas barbecue means | | | | be held, Rudy Mikeska andhis barbecue specialties |
| beefbrisket, basted meats, and tomato-based sauce, | | | | were there. |
| or sometimes no sauce at all. | | | | Elgin: In Texas, the town of Elgin is synonymous with |
| The selection varies from pit to pit but in most | | | | sausage. The smallcommunity, located about 25 miles |
| tradition reigns. | | | | east of Austin, produces the sausage soldby many |
| In each region, divided by hundreds of miles, the local | | | | barbecue joints through the state. The best known |
| barbecue is influencedby other culinary cultures, from | | | | of Elgin's smokin'stops is the Southside Market, |
| Southern to Tex-Mex to Southwest. Cabrito | | | | probably one of the most recognized names in |
| orbarbecued goat is often served in the western | | | | Texas barbecue lore. In business since 1882, the |
| portion of the state while pork orlamb is a more | | | | market is known for its Elginhot sausage, sometimes |
| common offering in East Texas. Cooking styles vary | | | | known as Elgin Hot Guts. |
| as well. Outon the West Texas plains, barbecue is | | | | Lockhart: Twenty-three miles south of Austin lies |
| usually cooked over a slow fire ofmesquite wood | | | | another "Barbecue Capital of |
| while in Southern and Central Texas pecan and oak | | | | Texas," Lockhart. The test of a real Texan is to |
| are morecommon. Farther east, barbecue pits are | | | | know the correct pronunciationof the town's Kreuz |
| stoked with hickory. Throughout thestate, meals are | | | | Market. No, don't say "Cruise." It's "Krites," rhyming |
| served with sides of cole slaw, pinto beans, and | | | | with |
| spongy whitebread, often on plates of butcher paper. | | | | "lights." Also in town, don't miss Smitty's, housed in |
| Dessert, if found at all, is usually ascoop of banana | | | | the building where theoriginal Kreuz Market was |
| pudding with a dose of vanilla wafers. | | | | located, and Black's BBQ, which claims to be |
| Unlike Kansas City and Memphis, Texas has no clearly | | | | theoldest barbecue house in Texas continuously |
| defined capital of 'que. | | | | owned by the same family. Since |
| But Texas does have what's sometimes nicknamed | | | | 1932 the Black family has been firing up these brick |
| the "barbecue belt," asmoky swath that runs through | | | | pits every day for lunchand dinner. |
| the central part of the state and includes: | | | | Luling: Located east of Austin, Luling is the land of oil |
| Llano: On the westernmost edge of the barbecue | | | | wells. No longer aboomtown, today the barbecue |
| belt lies the community of | | | | restaurants are the ones producing black gold. |
| Llano. What makes Llano unique among the central | | | | The best known spot in town is the City Market, a |
| Texas barbecue towns is itscooking style. Most pit | | | | no-frills smoky meat market,with plenty of local |
| masters in this town rely on indirect barbecuing. In | | | | atmosphere. |