| Alvin Starkman M.A., LL.B. | | | | Borrego (bbq goat) had been sold out to patrons |
| Middle class residents of major American and | | | | who knew better than we did to order ahead or for |
| Canadian cities tend to have their favorite all-day | | | | take-out. All was not lost, however, since my |
| Sunday brunch haunts…relaxed, clean, diner-style | | | | wife’s main dish of tender pork ribs was |
| restaurants dishing up home cooking in a comfortable | | | | prepared in the same style as one of the traditional |
| familiar environment. Six days a week from 1 to 6 | | | | barbeque recipes, baked in a tangy sauce and |
| pm Los Almendros serves such a function for local | | | | enveloped in foil. Try the black beans with aromatic |
| Oaxacans. Tucked away on a cobblestone privada | | | | flavor of hierba de conejo as a side dish to any of |
| close to Blvd. Manuel Ruiz in Colonia Reforma, a few | | | | the grilled or baked meats. I began with a generous, |
| blocks northeast of the baseball stadium, Lionel | | | | piping hot serving of absolutely spectacular caldo de |
| Leyva with wife Soledad and family have been | | | | espinazo with an assortment of carrots, beans, |
| greeting friends and new devotees since 1974. You | | | | potatoes and requisite pork, flavored with chili pasillo |
| can’t help but feel at home in this Cheers-esque | | | | and accompanied by a dish of sliced lime, chopped |
| setting as you watch Lionel greet his own set of | | | | onion and serrano chili for added acidity, spice and |
| Frazier Cranes . | | | | texture. That, after appetizers and some of the |
| | | | | better tortillas I’ve had in a while should have |
| Upon entering the quadrangle-shaped comedor | | | | been enough, but the tongue in its traditional mole |
| you’re struck by its warmth and amiability, | | | | called out to me. With whole black and green olives, |
| without a trace of pretension. Wooden tables with | | | | and a tomato based sauce flavored with onion, garlic, |
| traditional colorful woven cloths are covered with | | | | raisin and almond, this bowl of lean, succulent sliced |
| thick plastic. Walls are adorned with framed photos | | | | meat ranked with the best. To complete the meal, |
| of the owners with family and patrons of | | | | if you haven’t had cajeta, the goat’s milk |
| celebrity…no politicians, but rather actors, singers | | | | caramelized sweet, try it here in a light gelatin, |
| and songwriters. Two mounted deer busts serve as | | | | alongside a cup of café de olla. |
| testimony that the Leyvas do things their way, and | | | | |
| the throngs of faithful as evidence of approval. | | | | Just as the regulars returned to that immortalized |
| | | | | Boston bistro every week, you too will be drawn |
| The menu is limited to perhaps 15 or 20 authentic | | | | back to Los Almendros time and again, if not on a |
| Oaxacan plates, some of which are appetizers. You | | | | subsequent visit during this trip to Oaxaca, then upon |
| can choose daily specials not often found in other | | | | your return… and greeted just as warmly as the |
| local eateries. All is á la carte, so begin with one or | | | | old gang. |
| two of the modestly priced botanas, perhaps | | | | |
| memelas or an appetizer sized grilled meat dish, each | | | | Notes: Comida only, 1 – 6 pm |
| of which is accompanied by salsa and guacamole. | | | | Closed Thursdays |
| The house mezcal is noteworthy and definitely worth | | | | Beer, spirits and liqueurs |
| sampling if nothing else. For this visit Lionel had a | | | | Full meal incl beverage 70 – |
| tobalá and a surprisingly smooth gusano. | | | | 90 pesos |
| | | | | |
| Although we arrived relatively early for this comida, | | | | Comedor Familiar Los Almendros |
| by the time we were ready to order entrées, | | | | 3ra Privada de Almendros #109, |
| surprisingly the Sunday staple of Barbacoa de | | | | Col. |