| With the approach of warm weather, blue skies, | | | | There are two camps on basting philosophy-one |
| spring bulbs and lambs, our thoughts turn to grilling. | | | | camp claims that basting prevents crispy |
| It's time to dust off the barbecue and uncover the | | | | caramelization, and the other camp claims that |
| patio furniture. Here are my top ten tips for enjoying | | | | basting keeps grilled cuts moist. Our findings, after |
| hearty meals hot off the grill. | | | | hundreds of field trials, are that red meats should be |
| It all boils down to how do I get it started? and | | | | allowed to caramelize over high heat, then moved to |
| when is it done? Everything in between should be | | | | the edge of the grill to continue roasting. Fish, on the |
| simple and fun. I used to prepare appetizers on the | | | | other hand, should be grilled over lower heat, with |
| grill for hundreds of people on wine festival | | | | frequent basting to keep the fish moist and |
| weekends. For the most part, I had great success, | | | | succulent. I encourage you to perform your own field |
| except when I set fire to the barbecue itself (a feat | | | | trials. |
| my 'ex' didn't think possible), or the time our friends | | | | Always err on the moist, underdone side. Grill |
| decided to use walnut firewood to start a | | | | temperatures can be quite hot, and after food is |
| twelve-hour barbecue fire, good for dinner and | | | | removed from the grill, it will continue to cook in its |
| breakfast. | | | | own retained heat. You can always return meat to |
| I use a Weber kettle-style barbecue, because I like | | | | the grill, so if you think it's almost done, place the |
| the intense heat produced by coals, as well as even | | | | meat on a cutting board and let it rest for several |
| heating when the lid is closed. My 26" Weber can get | | | | minutes. Cutting a thin slice off the end will give you |
| up to 600° very quickly with the lid closed. My | | | | a good idea of how the center is doing.. |
| friends and I don't actually grill at that temperature, in | | | | While turning meat to caramelize the exterior, |
| our saner moments, but we can grill on cold, windy | | | | remember that barbecue sauces have quite an |
| evenings, without losing heat to wind and frigid | | | | impact at this stage. The more sugar in the sauce, |
| outdoor temperatures. In cold, windy conditions gas | | | | the faster the exterior will seal. Move large cuts of |
| flames just cannot keep the grill hot enough, even | | | | meat slightly off center to continue cooking near, but |
| with the lid closed. Gas emitters clog with grease and | | | | not directly over, the hottest coals, or all the way |
| ash, and since I like to grill often, that's extremely | | | | out to the edge to heat all the way through without |
| inconvenient. So I stick with my trusty Weber, piling | | | | boiling out the meat juices. |
| coals in the middle for a nice hot center, and leaving | | | | After searing, grill your meat on each side of the cut |
| the edges open for radiant heat, or piling them to | | | | for an additional two to ten minutes, depending on |
| one side if I'm going to rotisserie. You can also use | | | | the thickness of the cut. A T-bone steak one to two |
| moistened wood chips and herbs in a coal barbecue. | | | | inches thick would need to cook an additional four to |
| Here are my ten simple steps for successful and | | | | five minutes on each side, while a triangular tritip cut |
| enjoyable grilling: | | | | would need at least ten minutes on each side. |
| 1. Give yourself plenty of time. | | | | Grilling is not always done in early evening, with warm |
| Time to get the coals started, time to prepare and | | | | breezes wafting through a chartreuse canopy of |
| marinate the meat, time to cook the meat slowly | | | | spring walnut leaves. I enjoy those evenings, but my |
| over medium-hot coals. Grilling is not an activity that | | | | friends and I have also been known to grill a roast in |
| should be rushed. Give yourself an early start so you | | | | the kitchen window's castoff light on a cold, crisp |
| can visit with guests and enjoy a leisurely pace. | | | | November night while waiting for a star shower. I |
| Grilling is fun, and it should be relaxing, so there's | | | | recommend the use of a good meat thermometer, |
| something to be said for starting the evening with | | | | but if you don't have one (or can't find it), another |
| dry coals, a clean grill, a grill brush that still has plenty | | | | way to test grilled meat for doneness is to give it |
| of wires on it, and a lighter that works. Use a small | | | | the "jelly" test. If it feels wiggly when you squeeze it |
| cupboard or storage unit to hold grilling detritus like | | | | with tongs, it's a long way from done. When meat |
| extra coals, paper grocery bags, old pots, drip pans, | | | | starts to firm up, it's hot and probably cooked |
| mesquite chips, wooden skewers, and toothpicks for | | | | through. Remove the meat to the radiant heat |
| serving sausage. It keeps everything dry and out of | | | | portion of the grill and check the interior by slicing it |
| sight, and provides extra counter space next to the | | | | slightly open with a knife. |
| barbecue. | | | | When meat is removed from the grill, it will continue |
| If you're not already a grill god or goddess, make | | | | to develop toward doneness, just as a roast would, |
| sure you've got space nearby for a cutting board, | | | | from its own retained heat. Keeping this in mind is |
| spices, a knife, and barbecue tools. It's more fun to | | | | doubly important if you use a sweet marinade to |
| hang out comfortably by the grill with everything you | | | | sear the meat. Your grill meat will have an "envelope" |
| need than to scurry in and out of the house fetching | | | | that not only holds in juice, but heat as well. |
| tools. | | | | To ensure the center of a large cut is done, cover |
| I suggest using a grill chimney to start the coals. | | | | the meat with two layers of aluminum foil and a |
| Lighter fluid and self-lighting coals impart a chemical | | | | kitchen towel for 10-15 minutes. If the meat is done |
| flavor and aroma to grilled foods. Plus, they're | | | | on the outside, but you would like the interior to |
| generally more expensive. With practice, a chimney | | | | cook a little more, this technique allows the center to |
| makes starting coals easier (and in some cases safer) | | | | heat through without applying more char to the |
| than any other method. | | | | exterior. |
| Paper mashing is an art. Don't mash too much paper | | | | Soak mesquite chips in water, so you don't set the |
| into the bottom of the chimney or air won't be able | | | | barbecue on fire. If your coals have died down, a |
| to feed the flames. If the chimney paper and coals | | | | single dry wood chip or two will help flame up new |
| don't cheerfully ignite, just tip the chimney at an | | | | coals without the chemical off-gassing of lighter fluid, |
| angle for a minute to allow air to flow under the | | | | but don't-trust me, don't-add more than one or two. |
| flames and paper. | | | | Wet mesquite added to coals will create soft, smoky |
| Keeping the grill clean is a matter of debate. Guys | | | | flavors during radiant heat cooking. Since you only |
| seem to prefer plenty of "char" on the grill, making it | | | | need to use a few chips at a time, one small bag |
| less likely that food will stick. I maintain that | | | | should last through several grilling sessions. |
| congealed, half-life grease looks nasty when black | | | | If you have an herb garden, this is a great way to |
| bits of it show up on seafood. Therefore, I keep an | | | | use deadwood from perennial herbs that need to be |
| old grill and a new one on hand, so there's always a | | | | pruned back. Harvest an armful of overgrown wood, |
| clean grill, or one that's relatively easy to brush clean, | | | | soak them in a bucket of water for an hour, and |
| for fish, shellfish, and lighter meats. | | | | apply a handful at a time to very hot coals. I usually |
| To remove excess char, get the grill hot over the | | | | perform this step after caramelizing the exterior of |
| coals, then brush vigorously with a stiff wire brush. A | | | | large cuts, and right before closing the lid. |
| painter's wire brush will work better and last longer | | | | Tarragon stems contribute a heady licorice scent |
| than the fussy versions sold as barbecue accessories. | | | | which is nice with fatty red meats. Lavender has a |
| To keep red meats tender and juicy, it's very | | | | floral, slightly bitter and pungent aroma, terrific with |
| important to turn your meat frequently, over fairly | | | | lamb. Oregano gives off a spicy, Italian scent, and |
| hot coals, for the first few minutes. Even a slight | | | | rosemary creates a romantic, mouth-watering |
| sear will help to seal in moisture. Light meats and fish | | | | incense. |
| do not need a charred exterior, just a quick sizzle on | | | | 10. Soak herb wood for laying on the coals |
| each side. Thicker cuts of meat benefit from being | | | | 9. Keep a bag of mesquite chips on hand |
| turned frequently at first while the coals are still hot | | | | 8. Remember the radiant |
| so they get that yummy, crusty exterior with the | | | | 7. Feeling for doneness-the "jelly test" |
| pretty char marks. Marinades and bastes are very | | | | 6. Don't overcook |
| important for this step-a little extra sugar in the | | | | 5. Go for the allover sear |
| marinade will help it adhere, and the meat will | | | | 4. Keep the grill clean |
| caramelize quickly, sealing in moisture, juice, and heat. | | | | 3. Use a starter chimney |
| Tilt cuts of meat on their edges briefly to seal all | | | | 2. |
| sides of the cut. | | | | |